marizzyartz’ Unofficial Guide to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum.
In a world where Beyoncé can buy a Basquiat for her own reserve, the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum embodies one woman's awe inspiring personal collection that is the epitome of beauty & pleasure. In this grand array of art, visitors step into the heart of Mrs. Gardner and experience a Versace-esque exposition of wonders, treasures and once in a lifetime collectable items gathered, from her travels all around the world.
Opening to the public in February of 1903, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum boasted a renaissance collection unheard of in the United States, bringing in the country's first ever Raphael & Botticelli. Known more recently for its infamous 1990 St. Patty’s day heist, amassing $500 million dollars worth of stolen works, Gardner’s “Fenway Palace,” was inspired by a friend's property she visited in Venice, Italy. Living in apartments on the fourth floor, the palace was more than a place to store her artistic goodies. From the courtyard, to the infamous Dutch Room and everything in between, this was her personal oasis.
This month I visited Isabella Stewart Gardner and experienced Boston's most unique museum. As the museum embraces a “no labels” viewing approach, I created the marizzyartz Unofficial Guide to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. Use this guide to help you make your way through the venetian inspired palace.
As you enter the museum you’ll be met with its renowned courtyard. It is truly a surprise for the senses as the area remains humid enough for the pursuit of plant growth yet arid as it’s surrounded by dark Italian architecture that keeps the interior cool. The first steps into the museum are ecologically enchanting. I suggest making your way all around the courtyard and up to the Early Italian Room on the palace second floor.
Palace Second Floor
Early Italian Room
This room is beautiful, the artifacts not just the art.
‘Hercules’ by Piero della Francesca (about 1470), although at first I didn’t find him to be remarkably beauty as the Disney version is so ingrained in my head- understanding the era in which this work was birthed, I understand that a man of that size at that time would’ve been considered huge.
Raphael Room
Is gaudy, but in a cool, reimagining of the word type of fashion. I overheard security saying that her father worked in textiles, makes sense.
‘The Annunciation’ by Piermatteo d’Amelia (about 1487), is a brilliant display of depth. It’s like a painting inside of a painting.
‘Tommaso Inghirami’ by Raphael (about 1510). The lifelike depiction allows you to step into that time period and witness the humanness of thought. “Even after the advent of the printing press, scholars continued to create lavish, hand-copied editions of rare texts for rich patrons like Pope Julius II, whom Inghirami served as papal librarian.”
Short Room
While in the short room you can really feel her personality shine through. Isabella was an eccentric, cultured, bold and a pioneer for all that was cool. She adored not only art but artists, as well as highly skilled and highly educated individuals.
One of the books in the shelves of the short room is the book that completely shaped what we know today as art history in the western world, and also incited the birth of the Italian Renaissance: The Study and Criticism of Italian Art. There you will find other classic’s such as:
Renaissance in Italy, literature and art
Renaissance in Italy, literature and art And the Catholic reaction
Notice the way the drawings gathered on her travels are displayed in layers of pull out doors. She had a trendsetting attention to detail.
Dutch Room
The dutch room is a marvel in itself, as you can’t help but imagine these are the exact steps once taken by the never unmasked thieves of the art world's largest heist. If you look at the ceiling you’ll find details of painted wood. The darkness of the room adds to the intensity of the stolen works, whose golden frames are still on display; although the lighting has to do more with the preservation of aged works rather than mysterious marketing tactics.
A look at iconic Spanish painter Peter Paul Rubens' work, 'Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel' (1629-1630), reveals the artist's meticulous attention to lighting. Notice how the painted armor still glistens.
As you make your way around the room, I invite you to ponder: what makes someone an artist versus a master?
The view of the courtyard from the Dutch Room offers a full perspective of the 'Roman Mosaic: Medusa.' Although it may appear small, this ancient artifact, dating from 117-138 CE, belongs right at the center of it all.
Although Rembrandts “Christ in the Storm on the Sea of Galilee” (1633) - was the most valuable work taken in the heist- allow yourself to adore his ‘Self portrait in a plumed hat, age 23’ (1629) as you exit to the next room.
P.S. his eyes really do follow you.
Third palace floor
Veronese Room.
My only advice: Look up.
Titian room (pronounced TITCH-e-EN)
The rockstar of the Titian Room is ‘The rape of Europa,’ One of seven historical interpretations of the stories of Ovid, created by master renaissance painter Titian between 1560-1562. The rape of Europa depicts the deceit of Jupiter who pretended to be a white bull in order to seduce and seize Europa. The painting describes her distress in the waving of her red cloth as he leads her to the water, while angels both on land and in the sky race to help her.
“With the help of Bernard Berenson, Isabella Stewart Gardner bought Titian’s Rape of Europa from the Earl of Darnley in 1896, and it became the crown jewel of her museum’s growing collection. When the painting arrived in Boston, she wrote with delight to Berenson, “I am back here tonight . . . after a two days’ orgy. The orgy was drinking myself drunk with Europa and then sitting for hours in my Italian Garden at Brookline, thinking and dreaming about her.”
Other notable works in this room include, but are not limited to:
‘Christ Carrying the Cross’ circle of Giovanni Bellini (about 1505-1510). Upon further inspection features incredible detail. It's fascinating how the crisp white color has remained vibrant to this day. Fun fact: the painting was placed by the window because Isabella loved the way the light hit it.
Velasquez’, portrait of ‘Philip IV of Spain’ (1628-1629). Classic, Spanish art.
Long Room
The choice of blue is a shocking contrast to the room you are in prior. As you make your way through, it all comes together. Most of the paintings including ‘Virgin and Child’ by Botticelli created in Florence sometime between 1444-1474, display hues of blue with gold elements. Blue is typically also the color of the throat chakra and Gemini, the god of communication and messages.
In this room you’ll marvel at all of the letters collected by Mrs. Gardner. Communications that include correspondence with:
U.S. Presidents and politicians
Global Royals
Famous writers
French authors
and a plethora of other rich ass people.
Gothic room
The largest portrait of Mrs. Gardner herself, crafted by her longtime friend John Singer Sargent. In this portrait she was 49 years old and according to an official tour guide I overheard: “Mrs. Gardner had it sent back 8 times to adjust details concerning her figure.”
Palace First Floor
For the last part of your journey, make your way back to the palace first floor. It is here that will truly sink in just how far Mrs. Gardners traveled in her lifetime. From Europe to Russia. Egypt to The Middle East, and all the way to Asia. On this floor you’ll be able to walk through: the Macknight Room, the Blue Room, and experience the Yellow Room.
Yellow room
My personal favorite of all the rooms on this floor. Its aura uplifts the spirit and though it’s small it does a lot with a little. Maybe it’s because I’m a geek for a beautiful Mattise, but his ‘The Terrace, St. Tropez’ (1904) transports you straight into the French Riviera and leaves you wanting more.
The Cloisters
Ending your visit at the cloisters is the perfect way to wind down and allow your mind to breathe after taking in the grandeur of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The Spanish Cloister immerses you in a journey through Seville in southern Spain. There you’ll find John Singer Sargent’s, ‘El Jaleo ‘ (1882). This painting is a true marvel of Spanish-Romani culture, displaying the might of a dancer in action. While looking at this painting, you’ll hear “heels clicking, fingers snapping, hands clapping, the sounds of singing and guitars.”
As I left the cloisters, I noticed an older Italian couple holding hands and speaking their native language while sitting by the courtyard. This scene perfectly encapsulated the romance of my entire museum experience. What sets the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum apart is its intimacy. During your visit, you can marvel not only at renowned works of art but also at the soul and spirit of a true patron of the arts. But don't just take my word for it—head to Boston’s artistic jewel yourself and experience all that Mrs. Gardner aimed to express when she created a museum "for the education and enjoyment of the public forever.”